Literary Marrakech:Where Readers and Writers Need to Go in the “Red City” of Morocco

In early April, I spent five glorious days in the city of Marrakech with my family. As a lover of all things literary, of course I was interested in exploring literary Marrakech. That is to say, I was looking for all of the places in Marrakech with a literary connection. In my mind, I was expecting to find maybe a cool bookstore cafe, and perhaps the location where famous authors might have sipped a mint tea. In reality, I found all of that and so much more. Marrakech really is a literary city, if you know where to look. And I was delighted to meet some amazing people during my visit who have made it their mission to get the word out that Marrakech is really #Lit. Following is an itinerary of my literary tourism adventures in Marrakech.

Morocco Has a Famous Literary History

Before I set out on my trip to Marrakech, I decided to do a little research on Morocco’s literary history in general. I wanted to know if the country had any particular claim to fame as a literary destination, beyond Tangier being deemed the place where European and American writers - think Paul Bowles,William S. Burroughs, Mark Twain - went to write and escape Western conformity in the early to mid 20th Century.

It turns out, Morocco has one of the most significant literary claims to fame any country could have. Morocco is home to the world’s oldest, continuously running library, the Qarawiyyin Library. Even more incredible about that fact, is that the library was founded by a woman in the year 859! The Qarawiyyin library is located in the northern city of Fez, once Morocco’s capital.

According to the Guardian newspaper: “In the ninth century, Fatima al-Fihri, the daughter of a wealthy merchant from Tunisia’s Kairouan, arrived in Fez and began laying the groundwork for a complex that would include the library, the Qarawiyyin Mosque, and Qarawiyyin University, the oldest higher education institution in the world – with alumni including the Jewish philosopher Moses Maimonides, the great Muslim historian Ibn Khaldun, and the Andalusian diplomat Leo Africanus.”

After years of being left in disarray, the Qarawiyyin library was completely restored and renovated and opened to the public in 2017. Suffice it to say, I will be returning to Morocco as soon as possible to visit this magnificent library in Fez.

Marrakech Was Always About the Book

Moving on from Morocco as a whole, I zeroed in on the city of Marrakech. When I started doing my research about Marrakech, over and over I saw the city classified as,“The Tourist Destination in Morocco.” Also known as The Red City because of the red clay almost every building seems to be made of, Marrakech is known for its lively and expansive medina and the famous Jemaa el Fna square, which is where tourists can come and experience “traditional Morocco and all of its charms,” from snake charmers and circus monkeys, to street food and shopping. But at the same time, outside the walls of the medina, Marrakech is a modern city with all of the conveniences, shops, and restaurants one would expect in a major metropolis. What I didn’t find in the guidebooks, however, was any reference to a “lit” literary scene.

The Bookseller’s Mosque in Marrakech

Sometimes what you’re looking for is staring you right in the face, as was the case for me in Marrakech. Walking around the city on the first day of our travels, one of the ways we were able to orient ourselves and not get lost, was to locate the golden steeple of the Koutoubia Mosque. The Koutoubia is the largest mosque in Marrakech and we could see it kissing the sky from almost any location in the old city. Fun fact, for all of those who have traveled to Spain, the Koutoubia Mosque was the inspiration for the famous Giralda in Sevilla, Spain.

The mosque is listed in the all of the guidebooks as a must-see attraction (but note, non-Muslims aren’t allowed inside the mosque). Well, guess what I discovered? The Koutoubia Mosque translated into English means Mosque of the Booksellers! Yes, my friends, in the 19th century, Marrakech was the epicenter of the book trade in Morocco, and the home of hundreds of booksellers. That was enough for me to declare that Marrakech definitely had a literary past. I found this description of the city’s history of bookselling:

“The famous 12th century Koutoubia mosque itself, is known as the Mosque of the Booksellers and the thriving shops of the Jemaa El Fna which now stock a selection of modern artisanal goods aimed at tourists; were once the marketplace for handwritten works of literature and religious scrolls. Each bookstore was family owned, and the role of the bookseller was passed down through generations.”

I was hoping to find traditional booksellers in the medina, but I didn’t meet any on this trip. Maybe next time!

Sadly, over time, the booksellers were slowly forced out of the square to make room for more tourist friendly vendors. I read a Reuters article written in 2017 that said from the former hundreds of traditional booksellers in Marrakech, there are now only a small handful that remain in the city.

Literary Festivals in Marrakech

Despite the fact that the traditional booksellers have “disappeared” from the city, I soon discovered that Marrakech is still a city that loves its books. And many locals and expats living there are determined to revive and support the literary community by bringing a slew of new book festivals to the Red City. I was disappointed that my trip didn’t coincide with any of these new literary festivals, but I was excited to see that they exist and that they plan to continue. Here are three new literary festivals I heard about during my trip.

Marrakech African Book Festival

In February 2023, Marrakech was host to the first Marrakech African Book Festival. According to the organizers, “The Marrakech African Book Festival is in line with the major international literary festivals and aims to highlight the dynamism and creativity of African literature, while promoting cultural exchanges and encounters between different communities in Africa.” By all accounts the festival which ran from February 9 - 12, 2023 was a huge success. “The first edition of the Marrakech African Book Festival, which brought together renowned writers, publishers, artists and lovers of literature of the continent and the diaspora around a common objective, that of promoting African creativity from a literary angle and dreaming of Africa on African soil… set [Marrakech] ablaze,” is how the website The Daily News described it. The festival featired books and panels in multiple languages, to honor the multiple languages spoken on the continent. Hopefully the Marrakech African Book festival will be repeated in February 2024.

Marrakech English Book Festival

In November of 2022, the Marrakech English Book Association launched the first Marrakech English Book Festival. “The festival aims to celebrate Marrakech and Morocco as a location in literature but also, more importantly, try to push reading in English in Morocco and also writing in English in Morocco,” said Nick Cherkas, a member of the festival's organizing committee in an interview with the Morocco World News Service. The festival brought together Moroccan writers who write in English, and English-speaking writers who write about Morocco. The festival included author talks, publishing talks, children’s events and cooking demonstrations with cook book authors.

I spoke to one of the organizers of the festival who told me that the original plan was to make the Marrakech English Book Festival a biannual festival, thus they are planning their next festival for 2024. However, if the festival continues to be successful, they are considering making it an annual event. Keep checking the official Marrakech English Book Festival website for updates.

Marrakech International Storytelling Festival

Also held in February, The Marrakech International Storytelling Festival was produced for the second year in a row in 2023. From the Festival’s website: The Fesival “is hosted in Marrakech, the magical Red City with a tradition of storytelling as old as the nearby Atlas Mountains. …{The Festival includes] performances in a number of venues including cafes, museums and historic riads. More than forty of the worlds best kown storytellers and poets will tell in languages including English, Darija and Amazigh. There will also be workshops, educational outreach, socialising and opportunities for all to learn, grow and tell.” Although storytelling is an oral art, many storytellers have their works collected in books, which can be purchased during the festival as well. According to research during my visit to Marrakech, the next Storytelling Festival won’t take place until 2025, but stay tuned to their website and social handles for updates.

Literary Cafes in Marrakech

World Storytelling Cafe: 93 Souk al Fassis, Marrakech Medina

Welcome to the World Storytelling Cafe, where you can get a story with every meal.

Despite the fact that the next World Storytelling Festival won’t be held until 2025, you can still experience the art of live storytelling in Marrakech at the World Storytelling Cafe. The same people who coordinated the festival are the ones who opened this delightful, three-story cafe that sits in the heart of the medina of Marrakech. It took a few starts and stops to find the Cafe, but I’m so glad I didn’t give up the search. Reminiscent of the literary cafes I know and love in New England college towns and brownstone Brooklyn before gentrification, the World Storytelling Cafe offers an inspired vegan food and drink menu, a floor-to-ceiling bookshelf of multicultural books to browse while eating, as well as board games if that’s your vibe. But what makes this cozy cafe so unique, is that there is a storyteller available to tell you a story while you munch on your meal or sip your mint tea.

While I was at the Cafe, I had the opportunity to chat with resident storyteller, Brahim Daldali, a native of Morocco who is studying to be a master storyteller and who has won many awards for his craft. While I didn’t get a story from Daldali, he explained that he tells stories in his native Arabic or English for whoever requests one. “I’m not a writer, but I collect stories from people,” Daldali told me when I asked him what the difference was between a writer and a storyteller. In addition to Daldali, storytellers from all over the world come to tell stories at the World Storytelling Cafe, including storytellers who specialize in children’s stories.

The owners of the World Storytelling Cafe are British. While I was in the Cafe, I met patrons from Denmark, Israel and Mexico. Suffice it to say, the Cafe has a global vibe and people come there for the vegan food, to hear great stories, and also to learn the art of storytelling themselves. “Writers and storytellers love to come to Marrakech because it’s a multicultural city and you can see the culture everywhere,” Daldali said.

The World Storytelling Cafe is a new venture, opened less than two years ago, so if you are traveling through Marrakech, make sure you pay them a visit and support the storytellers! The food and the smoothies are delicious too.

Cafe du Livre: 44 Rue Tarik Ben Ziad, Marrakesh 40000

I was so excited to visit the Cafe du Livre, translation: The Book Cafe. When I first started researching literary cafes in Marrakech, Cafe du Livre was the only establishment that showed up in my initial searches. It looked like exactly the type of place I’d want to visit while in the Red City. I started following them on social media and saw that in addition to being a restaurant, bar, and used bookstore (with books in English!), they also offered exciting live events like Quiz nights, live music and futbol (soccer for my American readers) watch nights.

The Cafe du Livre was one of the few places on my places-to-go list that wasn’t in the old city. It was easy, therefore, to jump in a taxi, show the driver the address and get dropped off near the entrance of the Cafe. The thing you have to know is that the Cafe is actually in an interior courtyard and you can’t see it from the street. There is clear signage to find it though, and there are other shops, boutiques, and a restaurant in the courtyard as well. When I saw the sign for the Cafe I was so excited and ran up to the big wooden door, ready to spend the afternoon eating and perusing their bookshelves, but… it was closed for Ramadan!

I almost cried. I was so disappointed that I didn’t get to see the inside of the Cafe that I’d been tracking for weeks on social media, but I also kicked myself for thinking everything would be open during one of the most holiest seasons for Muslim people. Lesson learned. Otherwise, Cafe du Livre is open from 11:00am - 1:00am according to their Facebook page. They serve an “international menu” of food with vegetarian options. Next time I’m in Marrakech, I’ll definitely check them out.

Putting Marrakech on the Map as a Multicultural Literary Destination: The Jnane Tamsna Hotel

Reading at the Jnane Tamsna Hotel — The cozy, but elegant library at the Jnane Tamsna hotel just requires readers to settle in and read a book.

The Jnane Tamsna hotel has been on my radar for a few years. (FYI, the name Jnane Tamsna means garden of paradise. ) I heard a podcast where the hotel’s founder, Meryanne Loum-Martin was interviewed because she is the only Black woman hotel owner in the entire country of Morocco. When I heard her inspiring story and unique family history —her mother is from Guadalupe and her father is Senegalese – and how lovingly she spoke of Marrakech, I knew one day I’d like to visit this luxurious, boutique hotel located just 20 minutes outside of the center of the city.

Well, imagine my surprise when I discovered that Loum-Martin and her husband, the American ethnobotanist and cultural anthropologist, Gary Martin, are on a mission to put Marrakech on the map as a multicultural literary destination.

Without question, the Jnane Tamsna hotel feels like it was built to be a literary retreat, with its five bungalow-style villas scattered across the lovely gardens designed by Martin, and the unexpected and beautiful spaces to gather, write, and share stories. And then there is the hotel’s breathtaking library - that boasts an expansive collection of titles - that just invites visitors to curl up and get lost in a book.

Clearly, I’m not the only person to recognize the hotel’s literary retreat vibes, because the Jnane Tamsna has been host to several literary retreats recently, and will continue to host even more in the future. In November 2023, the Silk Road Slippers literary retreat will take place there, and the Philoxenia Literary Retreats - a joint venture between Meryanne Loum-Martin, publisher Amy Snook, and editor and literary tastemaker, Yahdon Israel, take place at the Jnane Tamsna on a regular basis throughout the year. Each PhiloXenia retreat has a unique theme and different award-winning authors and literary professionals are hired to teach. The next PhiloXenia Retreat will take place in July 2023.

I had a chance to spend some time at the Jnane Tamsna and chatted with Gary Martin about future plans for the hotel as it relates to their literary mission. It was so exciting to hear about all of the ways he and his wife and daughter are hoping to use their hotel to bring more writers to Marrakech.

“We want Marrakech to be be seen as a literary mecca for writers of color. And we would love to have literary events here at the hotel all the time.” -Gary Martin

Some of the amazing ideas brewing at Jnane Tamsna include establishing a writing residency for authors, more writing and literary workshops, and hosting one-off literary events. “There’s so much we can do here,” Martin said. “It’s a moveable feast.”

Not only are the Martins working to bring more world-class writers of color to Marrakech to write, teach, and get inspired, but they are also supporting young and emerging writers of color to come take advantage of their literary offerings as well. They have created the Global Diversity Foundation Diversities and Diaspora Fellowships which offer financial and mentoring support to “writers of color and/or members of the Historically Black Colleges and Universities community.” The fellowships cover, “the cost of tuition, travel, room and board [for the PhiloXenia Writing Retreats], and include ongoing mentorship opportunities.”

It was absolutely the highlight of my trip to speak with Gary and hear about all of the energy being put into bringing more writers of color to Marrakech. And with good reason. Marrakech is a city that has always inspired creative writers, artists, and thinkers. It is a multicultural and colorful city with the influence of Black Africans, the native Berbers, Europeans and Arabs evident in everything from the architecture to the food. In addition, expats from all over the world have made Marrakech their adopted home.

Marrakech has so much to offer a writer in search of inspiration and the Jnane Tamsna is the perfect place to capture the muse.

Gardens Made for Writers

Before arriving in Marrakech, I assumed I would find an urban metropolis bordered by the mountains and the dessert. I expected to see city and sand, and not a lot of green, but I was so wrong. Even within the city center there are lovely gardens that offer delightful spaces to read, write and daydream. We found two gardens in the city, the well-known, Jardin Majorelle and the Marrakech Cyber Parc that every writer should know about.

The Jardin Majorelle

Located alongside the Yves Saint Lauren museum, the Jardin Majorelle, is in every single guide book and blog post under “Things to do in Marrakech.” The description from The Jardin Majorelle website describe the gorgeous gardens like this:

The Jardin Marjorelle offers colorful inspiration for writers.

“The Jardin Majorelle, which extends over 9,000 m², is one of the most enchanting and mysterious gardens in Morocco. Created over the course of forty years, it is enclosed by outer walls, and consists of a labyrinth of crisscrossing alleyways on different levels and boldly-coloured buildings that blend both Art Deco and Moorish influences. The French painter Jacques Majorelle conceived of this large and luxuriant garden as a sanctuary and botanical ‘laboratory’. In 1922, he began planting it with exotic botanical specimens from the far corners of the world.
In 1980, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, who first arrived in Morocco in 1966, purchased the Jardin Majorelle to save it from destruction at the hands of hotel developers. The new owners decided to live in Jacques Majorelle’s villa, which they renamed the Villa Oasis.”

Because the Jardin Majorelle is on every Marrakech Must-See itinerary, you can expect crowds almost every day, and I’ve read of people being annoyed by the steady stream of Instagram influencers racing around the gardens trying get the perfect shot of themselves for the Gram. While there were plenty of tourists touring the gardens while we were there, it didn’t feel over-crowded to me (probably due to the fact that tickets are timed) and due to the “labyrinth” nature of the layout, there were still secret corners and hidden spaces where you could sit and feel like you had the entire gardens to yourself. If there wasn’t a price for entry (approx. $15), I’m sure I would visit the Jardin Majorelle on a regular basis if I lived in Marrakech, just to let my mind wander and to write in a serene space. There is also an adjacent cafe, where one can sip a hot tea or a cool drink and write there as well. (Note: Tickets for the Jardin Marjorelle have to be purchased online.)

The Marrakech Cyber Parc

Cyber parc Marrakech — The Cyber Parc in Marrakech is lush and green and there’s a designated reader’s corner where you can sit and read your favorite book!

The other gorgeous gardens we stumbled upon as we explored the city on foot, was the Arsat Moulay Abdel Salam, also known as the Marrakech Cyber Parc. When we first drove into the city from the airport, I remember seeing the sign for the Cyber Parc and assumed it was some sort of corporate complex. It turns out it is actually a massive, public, botanical garden with an interactive telecommunications museum in the center. The garden is immaculately tended, clean, and there are signs posted describing the plants, trees and conservation efforts in the area. The walkways are broad and there are benches everywhere to sit and read, write or create. Unlike the Jardin Marjorelle, the Cyber Parc has free entry and apparently free Wifi. The Cyber Parc is just a few minutes walk from the Koutobuia Mosque and the Jenna el Fna square.

Once I returned home, I did some research and discovered that the Cyber Parc has its own literary history!

“The garden was founded in the eighteenth century during the rule of Sultan Sidi Mohamed bin Abdullah (1710-1790). The sultan had a tradition: Every time one of his sons wanted to get married, he gave him a residency outside the Kasbah. And surrounded the residence with orchards and gardens. The Cyber Park was named for one of the Sultan’s son, Prince Moulay Abdelsalam. Prince Moulay Abdelsalam was a diplomat, a poet, and a writer.”

No wonder I felt compelled to just sit on a bench and compose a poem while I was there. The park was a gift from a father to his poet son. What’s more, although I didn’t see it while I was there, apparently there is a designated “Reading Corner” in the park that “provides calm and comfortable conditions for readers,” and internet access so you can “read online” too. How #Lit is that?

Fun fact, the sultan had a second son, Moulay El Mamoun. That son like, his older brother, also received a parcel of land and a palace for a wedding gift and in the early 1920s, that gifted real estate was transformed into one of they city’s most luxurious hotels, the Mamounia hotel. Why am I bothering to share this random piece of information with you? Because the Mamounia Hotel is a hotel famous for many things, among them being the creator of the Mamounia Literary Prize, which was Morocco’s first literary prize specifically for Moroccan authors that came with a cash prize. Sadly, the prize was only awarded between 2011- 2015, but the Mamounia hotel is still associated with literature in culture in Marrakech. So, there.

Writers Come to Marrakech to Retreat

Mwasi Healing and Restoration Center

Whether it’s the colors, the culture, the city or the gardens, there is so much for a writer to find inspiring in Marrakech. And the hoteliers at the Jnane Tamsna aren’t the only ones who see the city’s literary possibilities. TaNesha Barnes, a Black American entrepreneur and travel specialist, recently relocated from the United States to Marrakech and opened the Mwasi Healing and Restoration retreat center where retreat leaders can come and hold their retreats while Barnes and her staff take care of all of the logistics, from airline transportation to excursions out into the dessert. Barnes told me writing instructors have loved holding their retreats at her center, because they can simply focus on creating a wonderful writing workshop for participants and not have to worry about anything else. Barnes is doing brisk business, and is known for creating amazing, global experiences. If you’re interested in holding a writing retreat at her center, visit Mwasi Healing and Restoration Center.

DIY Writing Retreats

DIY Writing Retreat in Marrakech — For an inexpensive and easy DIY Writing retreat in Marrakech, book a stay in traditional riad.

While we were in Marrakech, we stayed in a traditional riad in the medina. No lie, I found my riad on Airbnb and it was gorgeous. The riad is a three-story home, built around a central courtyard. I couldn’t help but think how wonderful it would be to create my own DIY writing retreat and stay in a riad by myself, or perhaps with a couple of writing friends. The thing about the riad is that there are plenty of spaces around the home to find a cozy place to write. In addition, most of the riads catering to tourists have house staff who can cook for you as well. So, imagine writing all day, eating delicious food and then wandering around the city for inspiration and then coming back and doing it again the next day. It might seem counterintuitive to do a writing retreat in a busy medina, but I found our riad provided an oasis within the creative chaos. As soon as we walked into the door, it was like we shut out all of the noise from the outside world.

Les Deux Tours Hotel for a Luxury DIY Writing Retreat

Of course some people would want more quiet and solitude for their DIY retreat, and I found the perfect place for that too. Quite by chance, I discovered a hotel called the Les Deux Tours. Located in the Palmeraie district of Marrakech, Les Deux Tours is about a 20-minute drive outside of the city, where palm trees cover the landscape, thus the name of the area, La Palmeraie.

Everything about Les Deux Tours suggests that this is the place for an upscale, and luxurious DIY writing retreat where you can really, read, write, rest and restore your mind and body. And let’s be clear, writers need that.

bed at les deux tours hotel in marrakech — It’s the beauty and whimsy of the Les Deux Tours that makes it the perfect place to rest, read and write on your own luxury DIY writing retreat.

Les Deux Tours is a boutique, five-star hotel designed by famed Tunisian architect, Charles Boccara. But the Les Deux Tours feels more like a visit to the country estate of your eccentric, wealthy, uncle than a stay at a typical hotel. There is no “main building,” instead there are different structures scattered around the lush, green property, including private villas where the guests stay, a full-service spa and treatment center, a building that houses the bar, restaurant and salon, and other simple, but elegant structures that offer everything you could want or need on a self-directed writing retreat. A massage to ease the tension from the back and shoulders after writing hunched over a desk. Several swimming pools to float in to free your mind. My favorite part of the Les Deux Tours are the double beds, swings, and comfortable seating areas scattered across the manicured gardens that just invite you to read, rest and write in whimsical community with nature. The maximum capacity of the property is between 95-100 people, so you’re never going to be fighting for space or desperate for quiet. The hotel was designed to give patrons as much, or as little solitude as they desire.

My family and I had a chance to play in the pool, sample many of the delicious dishes served at La Pergolia outdoor restaurant and tour the grounds, and I can honestly say Les Deux Tours left me fantasizing about returning without my family in tow - sorry kids - and finally finishing my novel. It is not an inexpensive hotel, but for all of the benefits of “retreating” there, I’d say it was worth the splurge.

Literary Marrakech is Waiting for You to Explore

There’s a world of color and culture waiting to be explored in Marrakech.

I only had five days in Marrakech, and it simply wasn’t enough time for me to explore and experience all of the literary charms of the city. Again, it didn’t help that I was visiting during Ramadan, and all three of my kids were traveling with me. This trip I came as a literary tourist, looking for all of the literary connections I could make in the city. The next time I travel to Marrakech, which I hope will be sooner rather than later, I plan to to go as a writer in search of inspiration for my next book or travel essay. I’ll write, and read, and explore, and sip mint tea on a terrace somewhere overlooking the Atlas mountains.

For any writer, Marrakech is, as Gary Martin said, a moveable feast. There is so much color, culture, history and yes, a welcoming literary community.

I hope I’ve inspired you to add Marrakech to your list of multicultural literary destinations to explore soon.

Marrakech Travel Basics

Language

The official languages of Marrakech, like all of Morocco, are French and Arabic. Because Marrakech is such a tourist-friendly city, many people speak English, but not everyone does, so get you Google translate ready and/or brush up on your French or Moroccan Arabic.

Temperature

Marrakech is pretty much a dessert city, but that doesn’t mean it’s always hot. According to the experts, July is the hottest month of the year with an average of 84 degrees Fahrenheit and January is the coldest month of the year, with the average around 55 degrees Fahrenheit. November is the month is usually rains the most. FYI, we were there in April and while it was 84 degrees during the daytime for two days, it really got chilly at night. And it rained twice.

Electricity

Morocco is on the African continent, but their plugs are the same as those used in Europe, so if you’re planning on packing an adapter for your phone or computer, you can buy/use the same adapters used for European travel.

Phone plans

Even though we have phones that work in Spain, which is literally only nine miles from Morocco, our phone plans did not work there. We had to buy new SIM cards when we arrived in Morocco. Luckily it was easy to buy them right at the airport upon arrival in the city. We bought ours for 20 Euros at Orange.

Literature

Obviously, a post about literary Marrakech ought to have a reading list about Marrakech. I don’t have a list of books to suggest just yet, but I promise as I learn more about The Red City, I will update this section of the itinerary. In the meantime, I will simply highlight one of my favorite authors, who happens to be Moroccan, Laila Lalami. Lalami is an award-winning novelist whose work is thought-provoking and always forces the reader to rethink their ideas about history, culture and identity. She’s also just an amazing storyteller. I highly recommend both The Moor’s Account and The Other Americans. Her first novel, Hope and Other Dangerous Pursuits is about life in Morocco. I haven’t read it yet, but now after spending time in Morocco, it’s next on my list!