The Hague was Made for Book Lovers: A Literary Itinerary for the ‘City of Peace and Justice’
Before arriving in the Dutch city of The Hague, I knew very little about it save some hazy memories from high school history class. When anybody mentioned The Hague, I thought of peace treaties circa World WWII, and I wasn’t wrong given the nickname of the city is the ‘City of Peace and Justice.’ That being said, I would rename The Hague, The City of Bookstores and Totally Cool Bookish things. Yes, it’s a bit wordy for a nickname, but it’s totally true, The Hague was made for book lovers.
Beyond the Bookstore
Let me be clear, The Hague has an abundance of really cool bookstores, which I will get to later, but they go beyond the bookstore in their bookish offerings. The city boasts bookstore cafes, impressive literary festivals, public libraries that rival the swankiest Barnes & Noble, and not one, but two museums dedicated to books and literature. I recently spent a week in the Hague and wasn’t able to experience all of the literary treasures the city has to offer, but I thoroughly enjoyed trying . Below I’m sharing the highlights of my literary Hague experience with the hope that I inspire you to add the city to your list of #Lit cities to visit.
Museums Dedicated to the Book in The Hague
The Literature Museum and the Children’s Book Museum (The Literatuur Museum and the Kinder Boeken Museum)
The Literature Museum and the Children’s Book Museum are conveniently located just steps away from the central train station in The Hague. The two share a common building, that coincidentally is attached to National Library of the Netherlands and the National Archives. Yes, it’s a veritable world of books all in one place.
The Literature Museum and the Children’s Book Museum share and entrance and a ticket price. I thought I would spend more time in the Literature Museum, but the truth is that the Children’s Book Museum takes up more space and has far more exhibitions than the The Literature Museum itself.
I brought my 12-year-old daughter along with me, thinking she’d be bored in a children’s book museum, but hoping there might be something that she’d find interesting. Lo and behold, once we zipped through the top floor of the museum dedicated to children ages 0 – 5, she was hooked on all of the interactive exhibits that brought the work of mostly Dutch authors to life.
Even though we don’t speak a word of Dutch and didn’t know any Dutch authors who write for young people, besides Anne Frank (and she’s not even Dutch), the Children’s Book Museum was an absolute delight. With interactive exhibits geared to the youngest children, all the way up to older teens, this museum had both myself and my daughter deeply engrossed in all of the information presented. (I’d say 80 percent is translated into English, so it is accessible to non-Dutch speakers.) Beautifully and whimsically designed, with hidden, maze like passageways and secret rooms, we spent over two hours interacting with the exhibitions that allowed us to fight off witches and monsters, narrate and record our own stories, and choose the ending of a popular fairytale and then watch it acted out with hologram actors. It was the perfect combination of high-tech and imaginative play.
The best part of the Children’s Book Museum is a new permanent exhibit called Back Street, aimed at engaging teens and young adults in the art of storytelling. It is a totally immersive experience where they have re-created 10 hyper-realistic scenes – from a Mexican cantina, to a tattoo parlor, to a gym in the Bronx – with storytelling elements baked into each scene. Plus, there are popular YA books scattered all around. It is truly incredible. Unfortunately, the exhibit is only in Dutch at the present time, but I was told English translations are in the works.
After all of the interactivity and color in the Children’s Book Museum, The Literature Museum feels a little underwhelming and takes up only one floor as opposed to the two floors of immersive content for the kids.
That’s not to say that the content in the Literature Museum isn’t fascinating and wonderfully displayed, because it is. And the focus is really on the power of literature and the Dutch authors behind the country’s most memorable work. So, don’t expect to find books on display in this museum, expect to find the stories behind the stories; he notebooks and love notes, one author’s favorite trademark pipe, another’s favorite outfit. As a visitor who doesn’t know much about Dutch history or literature, a stroll through these exhibits is a great way to learn more about this fascinating, multicultural culture. It’s like learning history through the stories of those who lived it.
Overall, I highly recommend The Literature Museum and the Children’s Book Museum for families with kids of all ages, and for any lover of literature who wants to learn more about Dutch literature and culture.
The Museum of the Book (Huis Van Het Boek)
Me pretending to write with a goose feather at the delightful Huis Van Het Boek museum.
The Museum of the Book is the former home of art and book collector Baron Willem Hendrik van Westreenen van Tiellandt. Billed as the oldest book museum in the world, the museum of the book celebrates the love of the book.
As it is a former residence, the museum is not large, but every bit of space is utilized to honor the book. And while much of the material is in Dutch, there is enough at this museum to tantalize the senses of any book lover.
We started on the top floor of the house, what would be the attic, and worked our way down to the lower level or basement. The top floor of the museum has been transformed into a classroom of sorts where free workshops are held on Saturdays, workshops like the art of cursive handwriting. The classroom is decked out like a medieval classroom where students write with feather quills, and “animal skins” are used for paper. There are even costumes that I suppose participants can opt to wear. We were there on a Tuesday, so didn’t get to participate in a workshop, but we could still poke around and it looked like loads of fun.
The other two floors of the museum showcase the collection of Baron Willem, both his extensive collection of ancient books and manuscripts and his art. There is also an exquisite exhibit of miniature books and while we there, there was a stunning temporary exhibition called Flora Batava which explored the history of plants and flowers in Dutch literature, with an emphasis on the plant life grown in the Dutch colonies.
Finally, even the basement of the house is utilized as part of this glorious ode to the book. What would have been the kitchen is now a cozy cafe and across the hall is the writer’s atelier, a sumptuous salon with couches and desks and exhibits of old-fashioned writing tools. Sometimes workshops are held in the atelier or in the back garden of the house.
So, even though this museum is small and much of the information is in Dutch, it’s still so cozy and #Lit, I would happily return just to soak up the ambience and I would definitely come back to take part in one of the hands-on workshops. Highly recommended for anyone who loves to geek out on all things writing, printing, and the history of the book.
The Best Bookstores In The Hague for English Speakers
As an American living in Spain, I was so excited to find so many English bookstores in The Hague, not to mention extensive English-language sections in many of the Dutch bookstores. Since moving to Spain in 2021, I’ve been starved for books in English and The Hague felt like finding an oasis in the dessert. So, that’s why I’m focusing on bookstores in English. Believe it or not, this is not an exhaustive list, but these were my favorite book shops that I felt offered a delightful selection of books in English by diverse authors.
I love books, so of course, I love this book bag from the American Book Center in The Hague.
The American Book Center: I don’t know if The American Book Center is the oldest English-language bookstore in The Hague, but given that they opened in 1976, they are definitely one of the oldest. (The American Book Center has its flagship store in Amsterdam and another branch in Leidschendam.) A family-run bookstore, ABC feels like stepping into your favorite indie bookstore in the United States. A wall of popular magazines covering every subject is the first thing you see, followed by new releases of fiction, nonfiction, and then just a massive collection of books of every genre including YA and MG, with authors mostly hailing from the United States. There is a rather impressive used book section on the second floor as well. The store is large, but not overwhelmingly so, and they have a nice selection of tote bags and other bookish gift items. Every time I go into ABC, I come out with a new stack of books. And if you spend at least $75, you get one of their sturdy tote bags for free. You know I got my free bag.
Mayflower Books: Ironically, only a few doors away from ABC books sits Mayflower books, another English language bookstore. With a name like Mayflower, I thought for sure they would be stocking books by American authors, which they do, but when I asked the bookseller there what distinguishes them from ABC, he said they actually carry more books from British authors. Mayflower isn’t as large as ABC and they have used books, rare books, and new books for sale all on one floor. They carry books for all ages and in multiple genres. I don’t know if they always have this special going, but when we were there they had a deal where you could buy two books and get the third free. Yes, we took advantage of that special. Of course.
Stanza Bookshop: I stopped into the Stanza Bookshop on my last day in The Hague because a friend recommended it and I’m so glad I did. My friend told me that Stanza was an international bookstore, and indeed the tiny but well stocked store had a wonderful collection of books from all around the world. In addition to a delicious variety of books from BIPOC authors from the United States and the United Kingdom, there was a nice collection of contemporary fiction and nonfiction in translation from Korea and Japan. Plus, there was an entire shelf of books in Spanish, and their sister store across the street houses only books in French! Kudos to the Stanza store owners for truly embracing the concept of international and multicultural in the selection of books on their shelves. I seriously could have browsed their collection for hours. And I walked out with two new books, one by a Moroccan author and one by a Trinidadian author, that I can’t wait to dive into.
Bookstor Cafe: If I lived in The Hague, I would probably spend most of my time at the Bookstor Cafe. Just as the name implies, the Bookstor Cafe is a bookstore and a cafe. Formerly a bookstore that only sold law text books, the store now feels like a bohemian hang-out where you can nurse a cup of coffee and a croissant and finish writing (or reading) your novel. Complete with a front and back terrace with tables for eating, the store offers a wide selection of both new and used books in English, as well as dedicated work space (and WiFi) in the back. Pro-tip, try the fresh mozzarella and basil sandwich. It’s delicious. I also loved the Bookstor Cafe because their logo is an elephant and elephants are my favorite animal. So, there’s that.
Libraries Rock in The Hague
Some people say that libraries are becoming obsolete. Apparently the people in The Hague did not get that memo because their libraries are both impressive and inviting. I had the chance to visit two of them while in the city.
The National Library (KB ): The National Library is in the same building as the Literature museum. In fact, the entrance to the library is right across the hallway from the museum. From the website: “The KB is the National Library of the Netherlands. We bring research, reading, discovery and lifelong learning within reach of everyone in the Netherlands. At home and in the library, online and offline. Since our foundation in 1798, our aim has been to collect as many publications as possible, that were written in or about the Netherlands. From mediaeval manuscripts to newspapers, and from Donald Duck magazine to historical and present-day novels.”
Even though only members are allowed to access the library’s holdings, you can arrange for a tour so you can see all of the library’s treasures. And if you’re not keen on the tour, the lobby is open to the public and it’s more like a lounge than a lobby, so it’s a perfect place to rest after visiting the Literature museum across the hall. There are multiple colorful couches, tables and chairs where one can read or do work, and there is free WiFi. There is also a fancy coffee machine and a small gift shop where you can by postcards, tote bags and other bookish things. It’s a total vibe. If you just want to chill somewhere for free, where you’re surrounded by books, consider the KB.
Central Library Bibliotheek: Seriously, this is just the main branch of the city library, but it feels like a sleek, modern bookstore, complete with a cafe, podcast studio, an impressive event schedule, and of course, books. And they’re free, because it’s a library. Yes, you have to be a member to take books out, but there’s nothing stopping you from hanging out at the cafe, perusing the books for sale box, and having a refreshing beverage while you wait for your next lit adventure in The Hague. That’s what I did!
Literary Festivals in The Hague
If I have convinced you to visit The Hague to check out all of their wonderful literary offerings for book lovers, then you might want to consider planning a visit to coincide with one of their two largest literary festivals. Even though the weather probably won’t be so delightful, these international literary festivals promise to be so #Lit, you probably won’t even mind the rain and chillier temperatures. Unlike summer festivals, these festivals are all held indoors.
Crossing Border International Literature and Music festival Nov 1 - 4, 2023: From the website: “Crossing Border is one of the oldest and most innovative music and literature festivals in Europe, and the leading international festival of its kind in The Netherlands. Since 1992, we have been welcoming the biggest names in music and literature, as well as showcasing new and exciting talent from The Netherlands and beyond.
Every November, the historic city centre of The Hague is taken over by more than 80 contemporary writers, poets, musicians, spoken-word performers and other storytellers in 12+ venues, fusing genres and art forms for an unforgettable festival experience.” This year, the headlining author for the literature porting of the event is Zadie Smith. Maybe you want to get your tickets.
International Literary Festival (formerly Winternachten) January 18 -24, 2024: From the website: “Writers Unlimited International Literature Festival brings more than a hundred writers, poets, spoken word artists and musicians to The Hague during the 29th edition from Thursday 18 to Sunday 21 January 2024. The festival theme this year is Human Voices, with attention to the voice of the author and character in spoken, written or sung stories or poems, and for artificial intelligence, chatbots and ChatGPT.
As usual, the festival will take place as a continuous four-day festival with programs both during the day and in the evening in libraries, theaters and schools throughout The Hague.” Tickets are already on sale.
Where to Stay in The Hague & What to Eat
If you’re a literary tourist like me, and you want to spend all of your money on books and not necessarily on food and lodging, then do yourself a favor and book a room at The Holiday Inn Express - Parliament in The Hague. It’s not fancy, but the location is perfect for literary tourism. The Holiday Inn Express is situated right in the center of the city, and is walking distance from The Hague Central train station and every attraction I’ve listed here. If you don’t want to walk everywhere, the hotel offers bike rental for reasonable rates. Bonus, breakfast is free with your room. It’s a typical continental fare with breads, meats, and cheeses, but it’s always fresh and abundant. I am not an affliate of the Holiday Inn, I’m just sharing my honest opinion. I’ve stayed twice at this Holiday Inn and found the staff to be extremely friendly, the rooms are small but clean, and there are tons of wonderful, diverse restaurants and cafes all around the hotel for dining options. Try the ramen at Takumi Ramen and the chicken roti at Koko, and the blood orange gelato at The Gelato District.
The Hague is a Lit City
All told, I found The Hague to be a delightful city with lots of offerings for a literary tourist. You could probably plan to stay in the City of Peace and Justice for a weekend and see everything The Hague has to offer. Because The Netherlands is so small, you could also easily make The Hague a day trip if you’re spending time in Amsterdam. It is only about a 30-minute train ride. If you do decide to go to The Hague, let me know what you think. I’d love to hear what you literary treasures you discover.